SANGALAKI AND MARATUA: SADNESS AND DISAPPOINTMENT

All is not as colorful funds in the archipelago Derawan ... Once known, the islands of Sangalaki Maratua and are no longer in 2013, the fabulous diving spots they were

Sangalaki without manta-rays

There are four years in July 2009, I had done the first time the long journey to the Derawan Archipelago, on the eastern coast of Borneo to see manta rays Island Sangalaki.

The encounter with these graceful giants, at the time, was virtually certain, snorkeling (mask snorkel fins) as diving bottle. I can attest, at least for the period of July when I was there. Manta rays lived there, around the island.

 Manta ray at Sangalaki (Borneo, Indonesia, July 2009).

Other travelers had made me dream and I have decided to undertake the journey: 
→ Dreams mantas

Having followed in their footsteps, I too kept a dazzled Remember Sangalaki. The show was magical. I spoke here in these posts, published in 2009: 
→ Manta rays Sangalaki 
→ Excursion Sangalaki

Alas, in 2013, there is nothing to see. Mantas Sangalaki disappeared.

I already had some fears, preparing this new journey in 2013 in the archipelago Derawan ...

I fell on various accounts of divers, on the internet, saying that Sangalaki no longer of much interest.The lucky ones who have recently encountered a manta ray there are rather rare.

During his stay in July 2013, I've only made one output Sangalaki. But even if I had been ten, I do not think I would have met with manta rays. Our guides Derawan Dive Lodge were not too pressing to take us there, knowing that we would be disappointed ...

Indeed, we have wandered nearly an hour above the sand, small coral heads and pieces of dead coral, unsuccessfully.

So I merely "walk" my 7D underwater, for not much.And lack of mantas, I served as a model for other sub photographer - Bambang, a very nice Indonesian, spent a few days holiday in the area with his wife and friends.

What has happened in four years? Why are there no more manta rays?

Our dive guide remained elusive at first, claiming they could still see manta rays, when there was plankton ... (Except that the last time they had seen one, it dates back to almost a month and it was from the deck of the boat.) Anyway, they eventually agree that the mantas around here were probably all been caught, or almost.

In fact, manta rays (and mobulas) are victims of the recent craze of the Chinese market for their gills, which are now considered a delicacy - alleged health benefits - as well as shark fins ...

Little explanatory reading about 20minutes.fr summary: 
→ The soup manta ray could cause the extinction 
For more information, visit these pages on the Mantatrust.org website (in English): 
→ Gill Plate Trade 
→ Manta Fisheries 
See also this recent article on the website Stopsharkfining: 
→ Manta Rays in Trouble from Overfishing

It's one thing to read about the current extinction manta rays. It is quite another to make the practical experience to my modest scale tourist-diver on the site Sangalaki ...

Maratua Channel

Not far from the island of Sangalaki, Archipelago Maratua is really beautiful.

I only take pictures from a distance from the boat. Traditional villages with houses on stilts, up-and-coming small fishing boats on the waters blue ... Life seems peaceful here.

But I was disappointed with the seabed Maratua. There is a lot of dead coral and pretty little life - with the notable exception of the appropriately named Turtle Point, where we meet for sure and many turtles, sometimes very large.

The famous pass Maratua, crossed by a strong current - in principle guarantee of marine life and abundant schools of wriggling fish - no longer deserves its nickname of "Big Fish Country."

Involved, dynamite fishing - still practiced today. Many times during our dives to the nearby island of Kakaban we heard explosions under water ...

During his stay in 2013, I made six dives Maratua very uneven and not exceptional ...

Among the great encounters: a tiny school of barracudas yellowtail which I managed to take some pictures (below); a slightly larger but insight too far, in the blue school of barracudas; and an imposing bench parrots humpback, which I somehow picked up the video, in a fog of sand and debris caused by their raid on the reef (I did not put you here, quality is really rotten).

But during our dives, no sharks, no schools of jacks, no swirling fish - nothing special issue "big."

In short, a big disappointment - including our guides, who seemed to expect better. The dramatic events are perhaps Maratua possible, but you have probably have better luck than I've had ...

I copy you below what I noted in my logbook at my ultimate immersion Maratua Channel:"Disappointing. Nothing. It has long been waiting in the cold current with our hooks, to see something ... Absolutely nothing. Just a turtle diving end. "

Conclusion

Admittedly, I'm glad to be back to Derawan, turtle , for the amazing lake of jellyfish Kakaban and its falling lively .

But divers in search of thrills and great show, I'd say Sangalaki and Maratua are worth probably more worthwhile to do a long journey .

The dynamite fishing and overfishing have caused major damage in the area. And it is not likely to get better in the years to come ...

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