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vendredi 15 août 2014

SANGALAKI AND MARATUA: SADNESS AND DISAPPOINTMENT

All is not as colorful funds in the archipelago Derawan ... Once known, the islands of Sangalaki Maratua and are no longer in 2013, the fabulous diving spots they were
Sangalaki without manta-rays
There are four years in July 2009, I had done the first time the long journey to the Derawan Archipelago, on the eastern coast of Borneo to see manta rays Island Sangalaki.
The encounter with these graceful giants, at the time, was virtually certain, snorkeling (mask snorkel fins) as diving bottle. I can attest, at least for the period of July when I was there. Manta rays lived there, around the island.
Manta ray at Sangalaki (Borneo, Indonesia, July 2009).
 Manta ray at Sangalaki (Borneo, Indonesia, July 2009).
Other travelers had made me dream and I have decided to undertake the journey: 
→ Dreams mantas
Having followed in their footsteps, I too kept a dazzled Remember Sangalaki. The show was magical. I spoke here in these posts, published in 2009: 
→ Manta rays Sangalaki 
→ Excursion Sangalaki
Alas, in 2013, there is nothing to see. Mantas Sangalaki disappeared.
: Cry:
Sangalaki Island.  Borneo, Indonesia, in July 2013.
I already had some fears, preparing this new journey in 2013 in the archipelago Derawan ...
I fell on various accounts of divers, on the internet, saying that Sangalaki no longer of much interest.The lucky ones who have recently encountered a manta ray there are rather rare.
Underwater Sangalaki.  Borneo, Indonesia.  July 2009.During his stay in July 2013, I've only made one output Sangalaki. But even if I had been ten, I do not think I would have met with manta rays. Our guides Derawan Dive Lodge were not too pressing to take us there, knowing that we would be disappointed ...
Indeed, we have wandered nearly an hour above the sand, small coral heads and pieces of dead coral, unsuccessfully.
So I merely "walk" my 7D underwater, for not much.And lack of mantas, I served as a model for other sub photographer - Bambang, a very nice Indonesian, spent a few days holiday in the area with his wife and friends.
What has happened in four years? Why are there no more manta rays?
Our dive guide remained elusive at first, claiming they could still see manta rays, when there was plankton ... (Except that the last time they had seen one, it dates back to almost a month and it was from the deck of the boat.) Anyway, they eventually agree that the mantas around here were probably all been caught, or almost.
In fact, manta rays (and mobulas) are victims of the recent craze of the Chinese market for their gills, which are now considered a delicacy - alleged health benefits - as well as shark fins ...
Little explanatory reading about 20minutes.fr summary: 
→ The soup manta ray could cause the extinction 
For more information, visit these pages on the Mantatrust.org website (in English): 
→ Gill Plate Trade 
→ Manta Fisheries 
See also this recent article on the website Stopsharkfining: 
→ Manta Rays in Trouble from Overfishing
It's one thing to read about the current extinction manta rays. It is quite another to make the practical experience to my modest scale tourist-diver on the site Sangalaki ...
O-8

Maratua Channel

Not far from the island of Sangalaki, Archipelago Maratua is really beautiful.
I only take pictures from a distance from the boat. Traditional villages with houses on stilts, up-and-coming small fishing boats on the waters blue ... Life seems peaceful here.
Maratua Archipelago, Borneo, Indonesia.  July 2013.
Maratua Archipelago, Borneo, Indonesia.  July 2013.
Maratua Archipelago, Borneo, Indonesia.  July 2013.
Maratua Archipelago, Borneo, Indonesia.  July 2013.
But I was disappointed with the seabed Maratua. There is a lot of dead coral and pretty little life - with the notable exception of the appropriately named Turtle Point, where we meet for sure and many turtles, sometimes very large.
The famous pass Maratua, crossed by a strong current - in principle guarantee of marine life and abundant schools of wriggling fish - no longer deserves its nickname of "Big Fish Country."
Involved, dynamite fishing - still practiced today. Many times during our dives to the nearby island of Kakaban we heard explosions under water ...
During his stay in 2013, I made six dives Maratua very uneven and not exceptional ...
Among the great encounters: a tiny school of barracudas yellowtail which I managed to take some pictures (below); a slightly larger but insight too far, in the blue school of barracudas; and an imposing bench parrots humpback, which I somehow picked up the video, in a fog of sand and debris caused by their raid on the reef (I did not put you here, quality is really rotten).
Yellowtail barracuda.  Maratua, Borneo, Indonesia.  July 2013.
Yellowtail barracuda.  Maratua, Borneo, Indonesia.  July 2013.
But during our dives, no sharks, no schools of jacks, no swirling fish - nothing special issue "big."
In short, a big disappointment - including our guides, who seemed to expect better. The dramatic events are perhaps Maratua possible, but you have probably have better luck than I've had ...
I copy you below what I noted in my logbook at my ultimate immersion Maratua Channel:"Disappointing. Nothing. It has long been waiting in the cold current with our hooks, to see something ... Absolutely nothing. Just a turtle diving end. "
Conclusion
Admittedly, I'm glad to be back to Derawan, turtle , for the amazing lake of jellyfish Kakaban and its falling lively .
But divers in search of thrills and great show, I'd say Sangalaki and Maratua are worth probably more worthwhile to do a long journey .
The dynamite fishing and overfishing have caused major damage in the area. And it is not likely to get better in the years to come ...
petitesbullesdailleurs

Travel to Turket

Istanbul: Portrait of an arty town ...

Ingrid Bauer March 4, 2011 Art & Design , Europe , Macadam
Istanbul, a model of democracy for the country disenfranchised, a border land between East and Occcident for nomads.
This land stretching along the Bosporus and the Golden Horn, and empties into the Sea of ​​Marmara, has also, like Paris, 2 banks.
"Right Bank" is the European bank where the historic district and its famous "postcards" seat. Mean by "postcard", the area which is attractively decorated mosques, the Basilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace.
As for "Left Bank" is the Asian side, where the popular area being renovated headquarters. By 2012, the metro will cross the Bosphorus.
But what caught my attention was "anti-Istanbul", ie the opposite views postcards and magazines. Istanbul captivates us with its innovative, creative nature. Evidence? the opening of many galleries, the abundance of artists and Turkish designers at the forefront of fashion. Ready for a hammam in the beautiful "special Arty Istanbul"?
istanbul-street-art
The entrance to a building in Istanbul
Go to "Istiklal Caddesi", a very Western pedestrian street accent, located in the trendy and lively Beyoglu district. This is the starting point of the art circuit through the streets of the "underground-Istanbul." Take -you card "Tophane Art Walk" or better the "Contemporary Art Map" because it is more comprehensive. A rejuvenating creative enjoyment guaranteed!

MY FAVORITE GALLERIES

Arter Gallery

The Arter Gallery, opened in May 2010 with an exhibiton called "Starter" in close collaboration with the Foundation for Contemporary Art Vehbi Koc collection. His will be a platform of expression for Turkish and other artists. A successful challenge.Proof in pictures ...
Arter Gallery. Istiklal Caddesi 211 Beyoglu www.arter.org.tr
Interactive work where each visitor is invited to ride in the coal yellow combination.
Ahmet Ogut. Black Diamond -
Ahmet Ogut. Black Diamond -
Harvest of tears
Vahap Avsar. Crying Boy
Vahap Avsar. Crying Boy
Halil Altindere. Portrait of a drug dealer.
Halil Altindere. Portrait of a drug dealer.

Sanatorium Gallery

Sanatorium Art is currently hosting the flagship of Chinese contemporary art, Luo Qing. His work, highlighting the malaise of the individual against the chaotic society today. A look between reality and fantasy.
Sanatorium Gallery: Istiklal Cad. Postacilar Sok. www.sanatorium.com.tr

Sanatorium gallery

No gallery

A gallery present in many international contemporary art fairs. Their latest exhibition features a duo of Turkish artists playfully parodying video games and other digital activities.
NO Gallery: Bogazkensen Cad. No. 27 / A Tophane-Beyoglu www.galerienon.com
Nazim Hikmet Richard Dikbas - New forms of rest and entertainment
Nazim Hikmet Richard Dikbas - New forms of rest and entertainment
Nazim Hikmet Richard Dikbas - New forms of rest and entertainment
Nazim Hikmet Richard Dikbas - New forms of rest and entertainment

Art Works Gallery Pi

Founded in 1998, the gallery is located in the street "Bogakesen Caddesi." This street is full of galleries spread down buildings with faded walls and eclectic wedding abimés.Un very symbolic of the unusual Istanbul.
This gallery focuses on art brut, recycling of raw materials. Judge for yourself with the work of Turkish artist Nancy Atakan.
Pi Gallery Art Works: Bogakesen Caddesi
Nancy Atakan
Nancy Atakan
Quartermaster tophane-istanbul
In the streets of Tophane district

A Table! Lunch arty, Sakip Sabanci museum.

Ancient villa of Prince in the 20s, she hosted from 1951 to 2002, a wealthy family, who made a fortune in industry and art-loving.Their private collection was opened to the public in 2002 to become a museum in 2005, with the villa on one side and a museum extension of the other.
This villa is accessed by the shore, we must go beyond the fishing quarter, Bebek, and then climbs a bit ... and there amazing, we discover disseminated by palm trees and a landscaped garden villa, "so look ash. "
Inside the museum, a restaurant overlooking the Bosphorus, the muze Changa. The design was entrusted to renowned studio Autoban. In recent years, this duo of architects-designers has the wind in poupe.Leur trademark, they work simple and noble materials such as wood, to recreate an atmosphere with clean lines and a typical retro-modern style, years 50.
Sakip Sabanci Museum: 42 Emirga Caddesi No www.muze.sabanciuniv.edu
Muze Changa
Muze Changa, design Autoban
Muze Changa-Autoban
Muze Changa, design Autoban

Visit neighborhood:

The Pera Palace, this legendary hotel rises from the ashes, after being a beauty. Pera, a myth, by celebrities such as Greta Garbo as Agatha Christie or Ernest Hemingway who made a nap ... the Pera Palace.
Pera Palace www.perapalace.com
Then at Studio Autoban who storefront. Visit the showroom open access where we walk through their furniture designs retro-contemporary lines.
Studio Autoban: www.autoban212.com
Pera district, Studio Autoban
Pera district, Studio Autoban

Dinner Cezayir mode.

Contemporary Mediterranean cuisine. Try the lamb curry yogurt pistachio, a revelation melting in the mouth. A green oasis in a landscaped patio, away from the chaos of the city.
Cezayir Hayriye Caddesi 16 -www.cezayir istanbul.com
Cezayir restaurant-istanbul
Cezayir, knife and fork

Maid in Cezayir
Cezayir restaurant
Shot at Cezayir

Au Lit!

A gem of a hotel in Istanbul's arty neighborhood. For the record, Tom Tom Suites, housed within the walls of his building of French nuns. This small luxury hotel of the world has only twenty charming suites at the foot of the historic district. Stay tuned.
Tom Tom Suites. Bogazkesen Caddesi www.tomtomsuites.com

Tomtom Suites
Tomtom Suites
Tomtom Suites
After a contemporary page, here in pictures, "postcards" of Istanbul, hear the inevitable visits, to go after the arty circuit.
St. Sophia mosque on the moon ... ..
Holy Mosque Sophie
Holy Mosque Sophie
Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque
Blue Mosque, inside
Rustem Pasha mosque ceiling
Rustem Pasha mosque ceiling
Mosque of Suleiman the magnificent
Mosque of Suleiman the magnificent
The Bosphorus

Travel to Morocco

Land of Amanar, the other promised land ...

Ingrid Bauer November 11, 2010 Africa , Family , Nature
Morocco direction, just 3h30 flight from Paris, I take you to the heart of another land of lust: Amanar Earth. Located just 37 km from Marrakech, in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains, Land of Amanar proves to be a paradise for eco-adventurer grass. Land of Amanar, another way to understand the desert and its culture, a Berber culture, fortunately here, still preserved at the foot of the High Atlas.
land-amanar-marrakech
Amanar, another promised land
land-amanar-marrakech
Amanar and ocher town

Amanar Earth offers a range of activities for young and old

Ropes course, climbing, hiking, mountain bike or donkey, near the forest reserve of the famous Mount Toubkal, the highest mountain in North Africa.
land-amanar-marrakech
Adventure trail
land-amanar adventure
Tree climbing, Amanar Earth

And your nights countries from 1001 stars?

Choice of: tents, lodges or camp, for those who want to rub shoulders with the great bear.
amanar-night land-
Land of Amanar, the land of a thousand stars
Earth amanar Tent
The tent, land amanar
tent-earth amanar
Another tent-twin
earth-lodge-amanar
The lodge
In 2009, they received the trophy Responsible Tourism in Morocco. The constructs were indeed made in the rules of art: noble and simple local materials, natural ventilation, passive cooling, filtration of natural water, compost, etc ... The field is truly in the background ocher décor .
A team of 200 people for passengers but also for the region, for everyone working in the respect of others and together with the local network of this rural area.

Side forks?

Delicious tagines simmered by village women from local produce.
restaurant-earth-amanar
The restaurant
pool-earth-amanar
Relaxing in the desert

Some ideas for great escapes into the wilderness around ...

Want to climb to seventh heaven?
Attempt the seemingly impossible: the ascent of Toubkal, which rises to 4167 m above sea level. From the top, a beautiful view of the entire massive awaits. And on a clear day, take a look at the mountains Siroua and the Anti Atlas M'goun even the entire Western Atlas and Marrakech.
A bath of local culture?
This easy hike is for you: on the roads of the souk: a beautiful ride, through oily crops and fruit trees, along the banks of the river leads you to the souk in right place.
land-amanar-wadi
On the banks of the Oued
So do not hesitate, come and relax with family or friends choose lands Amanar, a natural reserve of energy!
Call Jean Martin Herbecq from me, he will be happy to accommodate you. Between 70 and 115 euros per night per person on Bed & Breakfast (children under 12 free if they share the room with an adult).
Land of Amanar: www.terresdamanar.com